GTV LD ZASL6W-30 LED power supply

Small (up to 6W) LED power supply, 12V/0.5A

Repair:

• C5 (47u/25V) was replaced as it completely lost it properties, not even being recognized by component tester as capacitor
• THX203H needed replacing

As this exact model costs $5, repairing it might be not worth the time. I thought this only capacitor failure at first, but driver chip was available at the local electronics store that I had to visit anyway for $0.75.

I'm not 100% sure if I've fixed everything as this power supply behaves somehow weird - it's output voltage is stable with 100 Ohm load (120 mA) but falls down to 9 V with 27 Ohm load (~300 mA).

Asus VW223D monitor repair

 This is 22" 16:10 (1680x1050) LCD monitor from 2008. It has CCFL backlight (4 tubes), so power consumption is rather high (55W according to user manual). I suspect this might be power consumption with maximum brightness, as in my test it heats up only a little. While I'll probably won't keep it, I like warm colors of this kind of monitors comparing them to LED/blueish cheap LED-backlight panels.

Disassembly: panel is screwed up to back part, front frame is held by one screw and latches.

Only VGA input

Realtek RTD2554VH

Delta DAC-19M020 power supply, used also in other monitors. Apparently still available (as used products, so it might be hard to predict their expected life time) on aliexpress for less than $10.

When I've tried to turn it on, it only was blinking shortly in regular intervals - pretty typical sign of power supply malfunction or overloading. It turned out to be typical failure, with 2200u/10V capacitors visibly bulging and losing capacity. Other capacitors seemed to be fine when measuring with tester, but I've actually replaced all electrolytic capacitors except for the high voltage one. 

Other problem: not working ON/OFF microswitch (probably because it was the most used one). Metal part soldering was broken and also its latches were streched, so it was only loosely attached. I probably could search for some replacement, but soldering back microswitch metal part and securing it with some epoxy was faster and seems good enough.

Trust Mauro USB headset

Trust Mauro (17591) USB headset, retail price ~$20.

Problem: weird sounds from left earpiece (not correlated with played audio), slightly disturbed sound from right earpiece.

Rather big in size in-line controller: volume, output mute, microphone mute.

Sound card (chip with scrapped markings) inside USB plug. Plug itself is glued together but can be opened by prying (with some damage).

Cause of the problem: mismatched connections between USB part and controller part. I think this was factory error, probably partially caused by not so clear PCB markings (for example there is "M-" and "M/-" contact pad).

Build quality is worse than with Trust Roha - headband is thin and little creaky, ear cushions are less soft. In-line controller is large and its weight can be felt when e.g. it drops from the table.
Probably too much bass (same as Trust Roha), but not as muddy - they sound better than Trust Roha.

On the other side microphone is quite noisy. It seems that this noise depends little on USB connection - it was higher when I was using extension cord.

One weird thing is that sound card emits some heat - not a lot, but this is still unusual for this type of device. I'm not sure if this is not a problem of my particular item, but otherwise it seems to work correctly.

Mi True Wireless Earbuds Basic 2

One of the earphones was damaged, strongly heating up when charging.

Apparently opening these earphones is possible - perhaps they can be called serviceable. This came to me already opened.

XM2000

Antenna is missing - probably damaged when opening.

These earphones (PCB markings: T29-XM2000-NTC-V1.2) are very similar to RedMi Airdots 2: https://www.qucox.com/redmi-airdots-2-teardown/ (T29-XM2000-V2.1).

I do not like the sound of these earphones. I had only one in my ear and from what I see this changes perception of the music, but I would describe their sound as flat, with bass missing. Maximum output volume seems also lower than e.g. with Trust Primo Touch or Libratone Track Air+. Probably because speaker is relatively small, only 5.4 mm in diameter.

Mechanical switches instead of touch buttons are a plus in my opinion.

Earphone lasted respectable 4 hours and 20 minutes playing audio with maximum volume from BT 4.0 phone.

It was also compatible with old Nokia 113, Bluetooth 2.1 EDR.

D-Link DWR 116 router

Hardware revision A2.

Three screws including two hidden under rubber feet.

Mediatek MT7620N

25Q64JV - 64 Mbit SPI Flash

W9425G6 - 32 MB DDR SDRAM, 16-bit

5V/2A power adapter included

MP1495DJ

Next to it: burned out SY6280 (for USB host port)

No visible damages beside burned SY6280 and power supply seems fine, but still very little activity on Flash pins - at the moment I gave up fixing it. Perhaps reading current Flash content should be next step.

MPOW D7 earphones

Inexpensive Bluetooth earphones.

Two earpieces connected with cable, buttons only on the right one.

Reason to disassemble: no sound from right earpiece.

Earphone turned out to be easy to disassemble.

Components on the PCB are covered with rubbery coating - this should be partially water resistant.

Left piece contains probably only LiIon cell (and obviously acoustic transducer).

Date on the PCB: 2018-11-14.

CSR8635 from Qualcomm.

Single microphone.

Unfortunately this is failure of acoustic transducer itself and from my experience they are pretty much irreparable. I might try to find matching replacement later though - it looks like there earphones can be reassembled without significant damage.